What exactly is a bitless bridle? A bitless bridle works entirely different than other bridles without bits such as hackamores, bosals, or side pulls. The method of stopping and controlling the horse through a bitless bridle is much different. The amount of pressure put on a horse by hackamores or bosals focuses primarily on the nose. Whereas the bitless bridle distributes the pressure throughout the horses entire head making it less painful. Bits in general provide a harsher pressure because the pressure is subjected to one area, the mouth. The bitless bridle is less painful and more effective because its pressure is applied to less sensitive areas on the face. It is designed by one loop passing over the poll and another over the nose. The reins are attached to an area similar to a bridle with a bit. When the reins are pulled, pressure is applied. In doing this, the rider is essentially applying pressure to each side of the horses head for steering. For stopping, the pressure applied pushes on the nose and the bridle gently tightens around the entire face. In turn, when the reins are released by the rider’s hands, the horse is rewarded. The sensitive areas of a horses face are avoided when using a bitless bridle, making it more humane than those that minimize the horse’s oxygen supply by increased pressure on the nose.
A bitless bridle is a safe and pain free alternative to a bit. Bits are designed to put pressure on the most sensitive areas of the horse. If bits are abused or used incorrectly, even the mildest bit can inflict pain. Bitless bridles push the face where it needs to go while bits pull. Because bits pull, it can be a natural reaction for a horse to run from the pain resulting in bolting, bucking, or rearing. Bits also create a lot of force on the horse’s poll causing it to flex more. Flexion is important but too much can restrict the horse’s airways. Bitless bridles allow the horses head to hang naturally while keeping the contact. It has the ability to eliminate problems associated with traditional bits, such as bypassing the bit, tongue flipping, head shaking or tossing, and hard mouth.
The pull and release method is not used for a bitless bridle because it results in punish and reward. Instead, the bridle provides a gentle squeeze around the entire face which is not considered a punishment compared to that of a bit. The horse is no longer looking to escape the pressure and avoid the punishment. They are only responding to the painless pressure applied by the bitless bridle. It is beneficial to both parties resulting in overall improved communication. Using a bitless bridle is natural, pain free, and promotes a better bond between horse and rider.
There are many benefits of a wool-flocked saddle. Not only can they be “custom adjusted” for the best fit, they breathe for better air flow, offer good cushioning, and will conform to the shape of your horse’s back. However, they do require regular maintenance. A common question is, “When and how often should I have the flock in my saddle adjusted or re-done?”
There are several variables when diagnosing a saddle. We look at the age of your saddle, the condition and age of your horse, and the type and frequency of riding you do.
New saddles often can use an adjustment after 20-40 hours of use. After that, every 6-12 months is a great schedule to keep.
With used saddles, you can often have the initial adjustment done as soon as you determine the saddle suits you and your horse – and in some cases, the adjustment may be needed to make the saddle fit properly, since the wool will have conformed to the back of the last horse it was used on. All saddle new and used should be fully reflocked every 3-5 years depending on the amount of use.
If you have a young horse who’s growing, or a horse who’s progressing quickly in his/her training, you may need to have the saddle fit checked quite often – sometimes as often as every 3 or 4 months.
Keep in mind that these are just guidelines, not a hard and fast schedule – If you notice a change in the way your horse is behaving or moving under saddle, a change in the way the saddle is looking or feeling, or a change in your horse’s attitude about being saddled or worked, you may be looking at a saddle fitting issue. Being proactive can keep a small and easily remedied issue from becoming a major problem
Calming products are a commonly discussed issue in today's horse industry and there are countless opinions on the matter. There are many different reasons why a horse calming supplement may be a good fit, either on an as needed basis or as part of a daily maintenance schedule. Here is some basic information to help you decide if a supplement may be beneficial for your horse.
Reasons for using a calmative for your horses:
- Stressful situations
- Heavy training
- Transporting/trailering
- Competition
- Performance activities
- Racing
- Injury treatment
Not all horses need a calmative, but once in a while they can assist in helping your horse through tough situations...especially those that are upsetting or stressful. A daily horse calmative supplement is beneficial for use during heavy training, but can also be used when returning from 30-60-90 days of training (esp.if the horse was accustomed to a high protein or a high ration of feed).
Horse-specific calming products available at Millbrook Tack:
- Vita Flex Vision Paste or Pelleted (New)
- Quietex Paste or Pelleted
- Calm & Cool Paste or Pelleted
- Uckele RLX-ALL Paste or Powder
- Uckele Seroquin Paste or Powder
- Uckele Focus Calm Powder
- Wendal's Calmer or Calmer Special
- Wendal's Moody Mare
- Mare Magic
Common active ingredients (usually in some form of mix per company): Dried Raspberry Leaves, L-Tryptophan, Valerian Root, Black Cohash, Passion Flower, Ginger Root, Hops, Wood Betony, Cherry Extract(for flavoring), Benzol Alcohol(usually .05%), Sorbic Acid(as a preservative), Xanthan Gum, Thiamine(B1), Ignatia Root, Riboflavin, Magnesium, Vitamins B6 & B12, Folic Acid, Ginko Biloba, Malic Acid, Panax Ginseng, GABA, Grape Seed Extract, Taurine, Inositol, Tumeric Powder.
Still have questions or would like further direction? Stop in the store, give us a call at 616-281-0777, or leave a comment on this blog and we would love to give you some further assistance!
Does my saddle fit my horse properly? Correct saddle fit is a crucial piece of an enjoyable riding experience. A horse continually has physical changes that should be monitored to ensure optimal performance. A well fitting saddle will maintain ideal submission, co-operation and improve overall training performance of the rider and the horse. There are several things to be aware of when checking to see if your saddle is fitting correctly.
Does your horse do any of the following?
- Move away when you approach with saddle
- Resistance to tacking up
- Resistance to mounting or hollowing under rider’s weight
- Refusal to move freely forward on demand
- Resistance to lateral flexion
- Resistance to submission of head carriage
- Refusal to jump
Look at the saddle itself. Do you notice any of these issues?
- Unevenness of saddle contact once placed on horses back or saddle seems flat
- Cantle or pommel are not balanced from side to side
- Localized inflammation on the horses back or wither area
- Hair loss resulting white re-growth
- Feeling of being pitched forward or leaning back too far
Changes in a horse's condition through weight management, fitness level, maturity, etc. will affect the saddle fit. A professional saddle fitter can evaluate the fit so your horse will be comfortable and well balanced while under saddle. All saddles require regular maintenance and re-evaluation to ensure the fit continues to be beneficial to the horse.
Depending on the construction of the saddle, there are several options to adjust the fit to the horse. For wool-flocked English saddles, the most ideal choice is to rearrange or replace the wool flocking within the panels. For western saddles and other English saddles, there is a wide variety of saddle pad options that will allow a more comfortable fit to the horse. In recent years, several companies have introduced saddle pads that have different inserts available for an even more customizeable fit. Have you ever tried this type of pad and do you have a favorite? We are currently evaluating these pad options and will let you know our conclusion soon!
If you would like to find out more information about Millbrook Tack's Saddle Fitting services, please click here.
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Here is a list of foaling essentials so you're ready when the time comes!
Program your veterinarian’s phone/cell # into your cell phone.
- Prepare a birthing stall at least 12’ x 18’ (or larger), depending on the breed & size of mare. Fresh bedding of a generous bottom layer of pine shavings and straw for the top layer. Provide plenty of hay and water for the mare. If you have the option, set up a video cam in the upper corner of the stall to capture all the action!
- Put together a “Basic Foaling Kit” consisting of:
- Adhesive wrap such as Coflex
- Betadine Solution (for the foals’ hooves & umbilical cord)
- Bandage Scissors
- 3 soft bath towels
- Enema
- Foal Aide Paste/Colostrum Paste
- A clean 20 oz. pop bottle and rubber lamb nipples (in case you need to milk the mare and hand feed the foal for the first 24 to 48 hours)
- 5 gallon bucket for the after birth (your vet will want to examine it afterwards)
- Heat lamp
- Foal blankets
These basic preparations will help you when it’s time for baby to be born. Good luck and happy foaling!! 
Let's talk about curb bits or as they are sometimes called shank bits:
As we discussed in the blog on snaffle bits, most people confuse the term "snaffle" with the mouthpiece, when it actually refers to the rein action that engages the bit. To recap, a snaffle is a direct action bit, which means that the reins attach directly to the mouthpiece.
The other most common type of bit is the curb bit, which is an indirect bit because the reins are connected to a ring at the bottom end of the cheek piece. Curb bits also require the use of a curb chain under the horses chin to be the most effective.
A curb bit is made up of three parts. Two of these parts comprise the cheek piece, they are called the shank and the purchase. The shank is the portion of the cheek piece that is below the mouthpiece, and it determines the speed of the bit. The purchase is the portion of the bit above the mouthpiece that determines the degree in which leverage is applied. Short shanks should be used by riders with quick or busy hands and those with soft, slow quiet hands should typically prefer a longer shank.
The mouthpiece is the third part of the curb bit, can be made with almost any style mouthpiece and can be used with either fixed or swiveling shanks. While the snaffle bit generally works off the bars of the mouth and the tongue, the curb or shank bit, depending on the mouthpiece, also apply pressure to the poll, the chin, and even the roof of the mouth.
There are several different shapes of cheek pieces commonly seen on western shank bits, the grazing shank, the cavalry shank, and the straight shank. Their effectiveness depends largely on the fit of the bridle and the snugness of the curb strap or chain. The grazing shank is a smooth curved bar that sweeps back toward the horse, and the cavalry shank has a similar shape but the shank is shifted forward by an additional bend at the mouthpiece. As its name conveys, the grazing shank will allow horses to eat off the ground with the bit in their mouth because the shank moves out of their way. A cavalry shank stays in place when the head goes down and will not easily allow the horse to have direct contact with the ground. Straight shanks are the least common and typically found on breaking bits with jointed mouthpieces. These are often used on young horses to begin to introduce them to curb action.
When leverage is applied through the rein, the pressure on the chin and poll are activated. Depending upon the severity of the mouthpiece, this action will also cause some sort of tongue, bar, or roof of the mouth pressure. As we continue through this blog series, we will be going more in depth into the different types of mouthpieces and how they work.
As Dale Myler says "Applying pressure to the tongue causes more evasion than applying pressure to any other part of the face". Basically, to keep a horse as supple and responsive as possible, the best objective is to use a bit that influences a combination of several pressure points on the horses head.
Millbrook Tack has all types of horse bits for sale. We have western bits, english bits, myler bits, bit accessories and so much more! Check out our bit selection at www.millbrooktack.com
Feel free to comment on this post or contact us with any questions! Ride Safe and we'll keep the coffee on!
What is a snaffle horse bit? The TRUE definition of a snaffle bit can easily be misinterpreted as there are several common misconceptions regarding snaffle bits. A true snaffle bit creates direct pressure without leverage. A snaffle is not just just a bit with a jointed mouthpiece. Some people mistake a shanked horse bit with a jointed mouthpiece to be a snaffle bit, but the shank creates poll pressure that a snaffle bit does not. Although most common snaffles have a single or double jointed mouthpiece, snaffle bits can also come with a solid mouthpiece.
Artwork courtesy of Rick Gore Horsemanship
A snaffle works on several parts of the horses mouth. It puts pressure on the tongue and bars, which is the space between the canine teeth and the molars of the horses mouth. The mouthpiece and the rings will also put pressure on the lips and the sides of the horses mouth. When using a snaffle bit, one ounce of pressure applied by the reins will apply one ounce of pressure on the mouth. With a curb bit, one ounce of pressure applied by the reins will sometimes apply far more pressure due to the leverage from the shanks.
A plain snaffle bit is quite a mild bit when used properly, however when the mouthpiece is changed from a smooth snaffle to a twisted wire or a thin mouth piece, the severity of the bit increases. A snaffle bit is less severe than a bit with leverage because the pressure comes directly from the rein.
The most common uses of snaffle bits are in the training of a young horses, English riding, and racing. There is a wide variety of available mouthpieces that can be used with snaffle bit cheekpieces to address specific behavioral and structural issues.
We will be explaining the most common mouthpieces in a future Bits & Pieces post - stay tuned!
Setting the scene
It’s your third riding lesson. So far you’ve gotten away with wearing jeans and tennis shoes. You watch the riders around you wearing their expensive boots. You shake your head and smirk thinking, “There’s no way I’m spending my precious dollars on fancy equipment. What’s the point!?” Just then your instructor snaps you back to reality by asking to see the posting trot you learned only last week. During the lesson, you struggle to keep your feet from sliding through the stirrups. After the lesson, you feel some discomfort on the inside of your legs and realize they are rubbed raw. As you lead your trusted school mount back to his stall, he steps on your foot with all of his weight. After several excruciating seconds, you convince him to move but not in time to save your big toe. Next stop? Millbrook for English riding boots.
Different boots for different disciplines…really?
It may seem that the various riding boot styles are there merely to satisfy our fashion appetite but oh contraire, there is a method to the madness.
English Tall Boots
Two basic styles dominate the global market, field boots and dress boots. Both boots protect your calves from getting pinched and burned while riding. Both have a small heel to keep your foot from sliding through the stirrup and a smooth sole so your foot doesn’t get stuck in the stirrup in the case of a fall. The heavy leather of the toe (a toe-cap in the case of the field boot), is a foot saver when you get stepped on…and trust me…we all get stepped on.
English Field boots are primarily designed for the hunter/jumper market. They are defined by a laced opening at the front of the ankle which allows hyper flexion of the rider’s ankle when riding in a forward seat saddle with shorter stirrups. Field boots are usually made with a soft leather for that “fit like a glove” appearance. When broken in, the top should fall right below the rider’s knee and the shaft should fit snug on the rider’s calf.
English Dress boots have a smooth boot and are usually made of stiffer leather. Dressage riders ride with a longer stirrup and soft ankle position. The stiffer leather allows them to use their legs to aid the horse. They too should fit snug on the calf with the tops falling below the rider’s knee after they are broken in.
English Paddock Boots
Short paddock boots are useful for any discipline. When paired with half or full chaps, paddock boots offer the same calf and foot protection as tall boots. The advantage to paddock boots is that they are a cheaper alternative to tall boots when it comes to fitting young, growing children or for everyday schooling where style isn’t regulated. Many show circuits and organizations do allow paddock boots and half chaps for showing in some cases but make sure you check the rules first and remember, rules change from year to year.
If the boot fits…
So now you are armed with a little bit of knowledge. Next step? Check Millbrook Tack's selection of English Footwear on our website at www.millbrooktack.com. We carry all the name-brand field, dress and paddock boots in all sorts of styles colors and price points. Then come on in so we can fit you properly. All we ask in return is that you pay it forward with the next newbie you see at the barn in tennis shoes and spare them the broken toe.
Caring for your horses hooves may not sound like a big deal, but it is just as important as keeping your horse fed and watered. Hoof trimming and care is among the most important horse management practices but also happens to be one of the most neglected. Neglecting a horses hooves for any period of time has the ability to cause permanent adverse effects on the horses hooves and legs. Having a better understanding of the anatomy of the horses hoof and its functions will prove the importance of hoof maintenance and care.
A horses hooves are much like human finger nails. They grow in a similar fashion and need to be maintained routinely. The difference is that horses walk on their hooves so keeping them trimmed helps keep the horses legs stable and sound. The outside of the hoof is made of five main parts; the wall, coronary band, sole, frog, and bars. Each part has its own purpose.
The hoof wall is the outside layer of a horses hoof. It has no nerve endings so it can be cut and trimmed without causing pain to the horse. The hoof wall protects the internal structure of the foot and provides balanced support for the horses body weight. It is crucial to keep it trimmed appropriately because the slightest angle change in the wall can shift the balance of the weight being bared, which can cause your horse to become unsound.
The coronary band is located at the base of the hoof, much like the cuticles on a human finger nail. The growth of the hoof wall develops from the coronary band.
The sole is located in the center of the horses hoof and is a slightly softer substance than the hoof wall. It should remain slightly concave so the horse continues to walk on the walls of their hooves to avoid bruising of the sole.
The frog is at the heel of a horses hoof. The weight of the horse is distributed evenly between the hoof wall and the frog. The frog is a “V” shaped area and is generally softer tissue that works as a shock absorber for the horses hoof. It is also the place that you can observe to indicate a problem in the horses hoof. It should remain semi-soft and sponge like. A mushy frog is a sign of an unhealthy hoof and can be susceptible to thrush.
The bars of a horses hoof are an indentation of the hoof walls that border the frog. It is important to keep a horses hooves picked clean to ensure the frog and the hoof stay healthy. If proper cleaning is not practiced routinely, a common bacterial infection called thrush will develop.
Many things can effect the condition of a horses hooves, such as pasture and riding conditions, frequency of exercise and even food ration. If a horse is exposed to wet, mucky conditions it will cause their hooves to dry out. Moisture is responsible for rapid drying of the hooves causing them to crack although cracks are nearly impossible to avoid since the walls of a horses hooves are considered dead tissue. Regularly applying hoof dressing will help the hoof retain some of the oils that are produced naturally. It also helps prevent cracking and it promotes good hoof health. Cleaning your horses hooves on a regular basis is simple and it is the most effective way to ensure your horses hooves stay healthy.
Bottom Line - Your horse will be one happy dude if you give him a good pedicure!
4-H Clubs promote healthy learning for the youth of America. If you love everything to do with horses and would like to learn more, a local 4-H club could be a great place to start! 4-H is all about learning how to take care of your animal in the best way, learning facts about your animal, and having fun at the same time.
Do I need to own a horse to be in 4-H? No you do not! You could lease a horse for the 4-H season, or even be a groom for a 4-H club. Some counties offer 4-H for people who do not have access to a horse, and do activities such as play horse fact games, watching the latest horse movie, or even field trips to a local equine vet clinic, stable, or horse show.
Do I have to ride a certain discipline to be in 4-H? No, most 4-H horse shows offer classes in several disciplines of riding such as Hunt Seat, Western, Dressage, Saddle Seat, Barrel Racing, and Jumping. With this many disciplines available, many young riders use these 4-H shows to try a riding style that they have not tried before but have always wanted to see how their horses will do. 4-H is also a great place to learn all about the different disciplines and how to ride then correctly.
How long can I participate in 4-H? The typical 4-H age is 9-19, and the age is as of January 1. Some counties even offer a groups for younger kids. This gives a large range of years that 4-H is available. College scholarships may even be available for those who have participated in 4-H from the county or state.
Does it cost a lot of money? No, 4-H is not going to require you to have expensive clothes, tack, or horses. 4-H is the place for beginners to learn and grow with their horses. The state usually has a small fee for 4-H that is collected by the group, but there are often ways to do fundraising and earn the money. If there is ever anything you need, ask your 4-H leader. The are there to help you and make your 4-H experience a positive one.
Does 4-H interest you? If so, the best way to get more information is to contact your county extension or state 4-H office. They should be able to answer any questions and point you in the right direction. They will also be able to direct you to some 4-H clubs in your area. You can also visit www.4-H.org to find a local club and information.